Another amazing day fishing in Alaska. Standing on a small island in a river next to the ocean, fishing for hours, the tide coming in, and what started as an island is now about a foot under water. Before climbing into the boat, I find myself staring across the inlet, sunset just beginning, contemplating the day.
The salmon catching in full force today. (Notice I didn’t say fishing, I said catching.) I lost count after catching my twentieth, but that was hours ago. The last two silvers I’ve kept, regretfully finishing off my day of bliss. I’m partial to the silvers, or Coho Salmon. Their surreal bodies seem cleaner and fresher to me. Not even Las Vegas with all it’s dazzling lights can cast the same spectacular silver flash of brilliance these fish make streaking through the water.
Throughout the day I’ve taken my rain coat on and off countless times. Local’s will tell you, “If you don’t like the weather in Alaska, wait ten minutes.” Today it seems as if Alaska is trying to prove that to me. One moment a large patch of vivid blue sky above, the sun hot on my back, I peel off my coat and continue fishing. The next moment the sky darkens to an unbelievable grey and rain falls so hard it almost seems as if there is no separation between river and sky. Like a chameleon the river changes in unison, adding to the illusion. Now steel grey it comes alive as water falls into it in torrents. I’ve only seen it rain this hard in a few places in the world, usually tropical rain forests, but only here in Alaska does it seem normal. And then, like that, the river turns blue again. The sky is clear. The sun, golden, and seemingly brighter than ever before beats down. Steam rises from the river and the ground all around and again, I peel off my coat.
I never tire of looking up at what surrounds me. From the ocean spring up the forested mountains, rugged, climbing only to give way to the glaciers, which in turn rise up to the brilliant blue sky. Clouds rushing across the sky change the spectacular view moment by moment. Rays of sunlight, like veiled spotlights shine down through distant rain showers, one moment lighting up the forest to a bright green, the next moment giving a glacier the dazzling brilliance of a rough diamond. Then the clouds darken, the forest transforms to a grey-green, and another deluge drops around me.
Ducks fly over the trees and swoop in like jet fighters, skimming across the water. They land and act as though we have disturbed their home, squawking, and quacking as they keep their distance. In contrast several grizzlies have appeared as quickly as the ducks but they come straight out of the brush in startling fashion. Unlike the ducks they seem oblivious to us as we slowly back away giving them first choice of fishing spots. I have seen no moose today, but that is the way it is in the wilds of Alaska, unpredictable, untamed, raw, and a beauty unsurpassed.
Now, I take one last look around. The sunset, which in Alaska might last two or even three hours, is in full force, painting a sky that only a poet could describe on paper. Years ago, on my first trip here, I fell in love. I fell in love with the fish, the animals, the beauty, the independent people, the weather, the uncrowded towns, the seasons. I fell in love with it all.
My wife fell in love with it too. After one ten day trip with our three children we were standing on a river fishing. Our plane was scheduled to leave in three hours and my wife began crying. She didn’t want to leave, ever. So now we have moved from the warm comfort of California. Today I wait out the winter for another spectacular day of fishing. I wait for the snow to melt, to take my daughters and my son out, to fall in love with the same beauty that my wife and I have fallen in love with.